Hey, what a coincidence... I just watched this movie for the first time as well! However, I must say my reaction is quite different than yours. I thought it was a masterful motion picture. Maybe not QUITE as good as it's hyped up to be, but still very powerful in its own right.
Why was it good? Well, for one thing, I found the story to be riveting. Slow-burning, yes, but riveting. It's all about being trapped in by an inadequate and antiquated social system; it doesn't take much of a leap of the imagination to see this as a parable of modern Chinese society and customs. It's a thematically rich and epic tale, and I guess it just worked for me.
But even more key to my enjoyment were the technical aspects of the film. I'm huge into cinematography, and the camerawork on display in this movie is nothing short of virtuoso. The genius mixture of angles and vivid colors and everything all together... it just blew me away.
And also, the sound was often quite gorgeous. The one thing that sticks out in my mind the most at this moment is the little foot-massage tool. The massage scenes seemed to go on forever, yes, but that sound was just so sweet and soothing that I didn't mind in the least. It really drew me into the fabric of the film, to a place that was so peaceful and relaxing... it made me almost feel as if I was the one getting my feet massaged... and it felt beautiful...
I realize this sounds probably ridiculously pretentious. I don't mean for it to. I'm really not an artsy guy at all, but Raise The Red Lantern definitely worked for me in a big way. It's a difficult, slow movie, but I think it's an incredibly rewarding one...
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