"I guess I just didn't get that from the pilot - maybe it was a chemistry that developed as the series went on?"
Yes, it was this. A lot of it came down to the "will they/won't they" sex thing. Once they got down to it, the ratings started to decline. The showrunners didn't really know where to go with it. The actual investigation stuff started to take a back seat to melodrama with Maddie's running off, getting involved with Mark Harmon, etc.
There were a lot of tabloid stories of the tension on set too. Willis' star was eclipsing Sheppard's. It started to show up in the on screen stuff. The showrunners tried to focus on some of the secondary characters to reduce the screen time of the two principals. It only had the effect of accelerating the declining ratings.
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