This is going to be rather long, so bear with me.
There are basically four ways in which the films differ: historical accuracy, music, acting, and direction.
1. Historical accuracy.
When it comes to historical accuracy, the 2004 version was about as close as any Hollywood movie gets. It isn't exact, but it's darn close. Not only are the events portrayed acurrately, but the characters are mostly accurate. The only character who isn't the same as the real one is Santa Anna, who is portrayed one-dimensionally and without the extraordinary charm the man must have had. (of course, there is a lot of argument over Crockett's death, and this film choses the surrender version. Personally, I think he went down fighting, but it was a wonderfully done dramatic scene --- one of the film's best)
John Wayne's version, on the other hand, basically just throws history out the window. The list of historical accuracies in the film has three items: 1, there were real people named Crockett, Bowie, Travis, Dickenson, and Santa Anna. 2, there were a bunch of Texans in the Alamo. 3, all of them died. Otherwise, it gets all the facts wrong.
On the other hand, Wayne's gets the legend of the Alamo absolutely perfect. This is the legend of the Alamo --- the characters (except maybe Crockett) are the way we think of them, not the way they really were. There are big historical speeches, big battle scenes, and big sets, all of which look the way we imagine them but aren't really the way they actually were. The power of the story comes through completely. The 2004 version gets across some of this power, but not nearly as much.
2. Music.
Simple: Dimitri Tiomkin's score for Wayne's version is a tragic, powerful, and often very thrilling score that really captures the battle. The score for the newer one is an endlessly mediocre one that is occassionally just barely adequate, and is more or less listenable, but is not the sweeping, passionate score the film requires.
3. Acting.
Crockett: I agree. John Wayne just played John Wayne. He was fun to watch and did a good job for what is was, but it wasn't Crockett. Billy Bob Thornton, on the other hand, absolutely and utterly captured Davy Crockett. It was such a compelling and touching performance that it made up for a lot of the movie's flaws. He deserved an Oscar nomination.
Bowie: Both performances were very strong but very different performances. Neither Richard Widmark nor Jason Patric seemed like the real Bowie, but that was the fault of the script. Patric at times seemed more like the real man, but Widmark had the better performance (but not by much).
Travis: Laurence Harvey's performance is a superb Shakepearean version that shows a man filled with passion, but also with quite an ego and an offbeat moral conscience. Patric Wilson is... adequate. Once again, he's probably more accurate, but he's overshadowed in every other way by Harvey.
4. Direction.
In terms of filmaking, this is the most important aspect in which the films differ. It's what seperates the films in terms of quality. Both have scripts which have strong character development and moments of power and beauty, but also ramble and bog down in unnecessary subplots (which are much different in both of them --- ie, stupid, poorly written romance (1960) vs. San Jacinto (2004)). The 2004 version has the better script, but it's not substantially so.
The difference lies between John Lee Hancock and John Wayne.
As a director, Hancock does a decent job, with good battle scenes, adequate pacing, and some very good scenes. It's solid but unspectacular.
John Wayne, however, made one of the greatest directorial debuts in history. Because of the only okay script, the movie isn't great, but as a director, Wayne makes the same kind of spectacular debut that Orson Welles (Citizen Kane), George A. Romero (Night of the Living Dead), and Kevin Costner (Dances With Wolves), among a few others, managed to do. The film is a sweeping, powerful, and absolutely exhilerated experience where every angle and every scene is superbly crafted and filmed. The final battle scene ranks among the great movie battle scenes. Many scenes are truly stirring. Even the really poorly written scenes come across as well as they can. Wayne had learned from the best, and did an extraordinary job. The fact that he managed to make a film this well from that script shows that he had what it took behind the camera.
And that's where the films differ. One is a brilliantly made film with a weak script; the other is a fairly well made film with a decent script. The former is as thrilling and compelling as they get, but also overlong (like this post I'm writing) and a bit corny. The latter is somewhat exciting, intelligent, and thoughtful. Personally, I prefer the former more for one thing, however: the amount of passion that shines through. (both show it, but the former simply flows with it, the latter just hints at it)
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