Costumes accuracy? When was it set?


The 1940 Pride and Prejudice, well liked for decades, had completely anachronous costumes for the women. They wore dresses that would have fit better in Gone with the Wind.

Other than the hidden flaps that let the ladies access their concealed weapons, does anyone know how accurate the outfits were in this most recent film?

I'd seen Lily James before, in Downton Abbey. But, this film must have had a different costume designer. I admit it, every time she was shown in a close-up profile, her bosoms made me forget every weakness in the film's plot, or writing. I didn't find that in Downton Abbey.

I have a vague recollection that someone mentioned a date that may have set the film a couple of decades earlier than the original Pride and Prejudice.

Also, did I notice the Union Jack used in the film not possessing all the crosses? Slightly different versions where used at different times. The last change was 1801, when the Irish Parliament was retired, and MPs from Ireland sat in the UK Parliament, at Westminster. The Irish Cross was added at that time.

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The 1940 P&P and GWTW did NOT share costumes. That P&P takes place in the 1830s, and GWTW takes place in the 1860s. That's a 30-year difference. Do a Google search and check out the differences in ladies' wardrobes. They are most definitely not the same. For whatever reason, the people who made P&P40 didn't like Regency dresses and so moved the timeframe to the 1830s.

As for this movie, young ladies did not go about showing leg, did not ride astride and did not keep daggers in their garters. But this movie is one big winky smiley, so I paid more attention to the story than to the accuracy of the costumes. One person of my acquaintance thinks the ladies' dresses contained elastic, but I could see no evidence of that.

As for Austen and her original P&P, she wrote the earliest drafts in the late 1790s (under the name "First Impressions) which is when P&P05 was set. The book wasn't published until 1813, which is about the time that P&P95 was set.

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The 1940s version places it in the 1830's and for that time period the costumes are fairly accurate, at least by Hollywood standards.

The shoulders were more sloped, the larger sleeves, narrow waists, use of a full corset and skirts were becoming wider although you did not see the hoops. They were also just a bit shorter.

The costumes in P&P&Z weren't bad. The corsets were inaccurate.

If you want more accurate costumes for around the 1812 period the BBC P&P with Colin Firth is pretty good. They've got the undergarments correct, the little roll in the small of the back as well as the fabrics used. And the cut of the mens clothes is also very good. The pants are a bit baggy and the coats do not have the tailoring and padding on the shoulders of modern suits.

Yes, the dresses in P&P&Z were cut a little low and there was a lot of bosom heaving. I chalk this up to several things. For one, Regency romances are often referred to as "bodice rippers". Plus there is simply the term "heaving bosom". And I figured it was a gift to the demographic they are most likely to want to attract: boys aged 17-25.

I'm not up on British flags so couldn't tell you how accurate that was.

All in all I didn't find that many costuming anachronisms to distract me or make me wince or that couldn't be explained by the plot (I.E. influx of culture from Japan and China.)

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One costume-related inaccuracy in P&P95 (and here in PPZ) is the fact that the young women showed way too much cleavage during the day. S&S95 is more accurate -- they wore lace in their bodices during the day, and showed cleavage in the evening.

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True.

But Zombies was way more out of line. Also a lack of gloves, hats, shawls, hair coverings.

Plus I chalk it up to the attempts to attract or at least keep the attention of hapless males dragged to these movies by their significant others who are Jane Austen fans. I imagine the heaving bosoms are to assuage being subjugated to a chick flick.

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I seem to recall the married ladies wearing hats in public. I could be wrong.

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There is a scene with gloves that I remember very vividly: Lizy wearing long white gloves while cutting, slicing and impaling a great variety of zombies; the gloves stayed white all the way through.

Now, as a general issue, in terms of zombie-movie accuracy, one must say that there was way too little gore on everybody's costumes, even after intense moments of hand-to-hand combat 

there's a highway that is curling up like smoke above her shoulder

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The hugely popular costume website "Frock Flicks" has a good analysis of the costumes in this movie, including explanations of where and why historical accuracy was sacrificed:

http://www.frockflicks.com/pride-prejudice-zombies/

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I love stuff like that. Thanks for the link.

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Nice link - thanks.

I though maybe Darcy had some kind of special Ops position that didn't require him to wear a uniform. (Based on the "Everyone keep calm. We haven't done anything wrong." reaction to him at the beginning).

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Darcy's leather coat is totally in accurate. It kind of reminds me of what Matt Easton, a specialist in historical European martial arts, especially 19th century British military saber (or sabre, to give the British spelling) has to say about the plethora of shows today, such as "Vikings" and "The Three Musketeers" always dressing the characters in leather -- not just the occasional leather jerkin or cloak, which would be accurate enough, but a superabundance of leather, which is not at all.

Speaking of historical accuracy and Matt Easton... It's not related to clothes, but I couldn't help also thinking of him in relation to the way Mr. Bennett sends his daughters to China to study the martial arts, and claims at one point of the film that nobody has more developed/refined/effective styles than the Chinese. That's not accurate either. Easton has studied a lot of the primary historical sources of the 19th century, including soldiers' diaries and letters, and the modern worship of Asian martial arts is just that: modern. The British encountered foreign fighting styles in India and elsewhere, and left behind respectful accounts of Indian warriors. One British officer named Louis Nolan, I remember him commenting, stated it was pointless to teach Indian cavalry troopers the British sword exercise that British cavalry soldiers learned, because the Indians troopers were already superb swordsmen.

Easton even found original comments from British soldiers about Chinese martial arts as well. These date from the Boxer Rebellion, which is late 19th century, and so quite a bit after the Napoleonic era that Pride and Prejudice is set in, but the interesting thing is that the British were not all that impressed with the effectiveness of Chinese martial arts. Easton said there are numerous accounts of Chinese martial arts from the period, but "the top headline is: they're not flattering accounts."

The Boxer Rebellion was so called because this rebellious movement -- Yihequan (society of righteous and harmonious fists)-- grew up out of the "boxing" schools, which were, of course, kung fu schools. The British, other Europeans, and Americans called the Chinese martial artists "boxers" since this was their frame of reference (and the style, which was probably Wing Chun, or something like it, was predominately built around punching, as opposed to kicking -- and this is mentioned in the sources). But there are numerous accounts from British officers and other European observers of this period that describe the Chinese swordsmanship as poor, and their "boxing" as "unscientific."

I don't think it's all down to racism, as the British were complimentary toward Indian and Japanese martial arts at this same time. Probably the impression stems partly from the fact that the vast majority of Chinese "boxers" were more than likely men who'd had some training, but were not really experts. But even the experts in the Chinese schools of martial arts were not regarded as possessing a style of fighting that was in any way inherently superior to European swordsmanship or pugilism of the day.

Bottom-line: in the early 1800s, the British would have known very little of Chinese martial arts, and evidence we have (though from a somewhat later period) suggests that if they had known, they wouldn't have been impressed enough to be sending their children all the way to the other side of the world to study it.

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Interesting:

Easton even found original comments from British soldiers about Chinese martial arts as well. These date from the Boxer Rebellion, which is late 19th century, and so quite a bit after the Napoleonic era that Pride and Prejudice is set in, but the interesting thing is that the British were not all that impressed with the effectiveness of Chinese martial arts. Easton said there are numerous accounts of Chinese martial arts from the period, but "the top headline is: they're not flattering accounts."
That is quite interesting.

Mind you, how much of the late 19th century experts he consulted for British attitudes to Kung Fu is a reflection of something practically every film with a lot of fistfights tries to find a new way to ignore. The smart fighter brings a gun to a gun-fight, not just a knife, or his or her fists.

Weren't there terrific advances in fire-arms, between the Battle of Waterloo? In CS Forester's novel, Commodore Hornblower, his new wife, gives him a pair of pistols, built by one of Britain's finest gun-smiths. I think some commentators have written that his pistols were two advanced for the 1812. His pistols had rifled barrels, two barrels each. Instead of the hammer striking loose powder to ignite the charge in the barrel, Hornblower's pistols have waterproof percussion caps.

Forester's hero, musing about this wonderful surprise gift, as he squadron sets off on its mission, figures that the percussion caps were more important than the rifling, because they would eliminate mis-fires due to wet powder. By the time of the Boxer Rebellion every soldier could have a repeating rifle, or revolver, or both -- much more formidable weapons than the muskets and pistols of 1815, that required thirty seconds of undivided attention to reload.

Another factor -- I think it is a mistake to imagine that, during the boxer rebellion, the European soldiers were confronted with an army of guys with skills equivalent to a black belt. Isn't it likely that most of the boxers were relative beginners, whose skill set fell far short of the equivalent of a black belt level?

It has been decades since I read about the Boxer Rebellion. But I remember seeing parallels between it and the "ghost shirt" movement that swept through some Native American communities. The movement was the last hurray of organized Native American resistance to their American invaders. Shamans told their followers they could counter the advantages the American invaders had due to better weapons through harnessing the power of spirituality. They would go to battle wearing shirts that had been especially blessed by shaman, so bullets wouldn't hurt them.

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That is quite interesting.

Mind you, how much of the late 19th century experts he consulted for British attitudes to Kung Fu is a reflection of something practically every film with a lot of fistfights tries to find a new way to ignore. The smart fighter brings a gun to a gun-fight, not just a knife, or his or her fists.

Weren't there terrific advances in fire-arms, between the Battle of Waterloo? In CS Forester's novel, Commodore Hornblower, his new wife, gives him a pair of pistols, built by one of Britain's finest gun-smiths. I think some commentators have written that his pistols were two advanced for the 1812. His pistols had rifled barrels, two barrels each. Instead of the hammer striking loose powder to ignite the charge in the barrel, Hornblower's pistols have waterproof percussion caps.

Forester's hero, musing about this wonderful surprise gift, as he squadron sets off on its mission, figures that the percussion caps were more important than the rifling, because they would eliminate mis-fires due to wet powder. By the time of the Boxer Rebellion every soldier could have a repeating rifle, or revolver, or both -- much more formidable weapons than the muskets and pistols of 1815, that required thirty seconds of undivided attention to reload.

Yes, indeed the coalition army that faced the Boxers was much better armed, with bolt action magazine rifles and officers carrying revolvers instead of single shot pistols. But most bolt action rifles of the period carried just five rounds, and officers had no speed loaders for their revolvers, so they still carried their swords. The historical accounts made it clear that the coalition forces had to resort to bayonet work on a number of occasions, primarily thanks to the overwhelming Chinese numbers, and the fact that the Boxers were deliberately trying to close the distance and engage in hand to hand in order to make up for their lack of firearms.

That's interesting about the Forrester novel. I haven't read it, but if it's set still in the Napoleonic wars, Forrester decided to give his hero an anachronistic advantage. The first percussion firing system wasn't invented until 1819, by a Scottish Presbyterian minister named Alexander Forsyth, who was looking for a better gun to go duck hunting with. And it didn't use percussion caps, but had a reservoir of mercury fulminate. Percussion caps came along later still.

Another factor -- I think it is a mistake to imagine that, during the boxer rebellion, the European soldiers were confronted with an army of guys with skills equivalent to a black belt. Isn't it likely that most of the boxers were relative beginners, whose skill set fell far short of the equivalent of a black belt level?

If you reread my post, you'll note I said as much, stating that most of the Boxers were probably men who'd had some training, but were not masters of their particular style of kung fu.

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