You're actually right. Recent Japanese cinema is very style oriented, it's hard to find a movie that's worth watching just for the writing itself, especially an action one. Unicorn_Blade gave the example of Azumi, I just have to say that the movie is insanely stupid, even more so than the Returner, however unlike the Returner the action is very lackluster therefore there is no redeeming it, stay away from that movie. There are ofcourse exceptions and the one I watched last that was really good is Ichi the Killer (I know the movie came out a while ago, but I only just watched it recently).
Now Korean cinema is a different story. Sure there is a whole bunch of silly comedies (and some of these are pretty good), however you can find such gems as The Host, Taegukgi, Welcome to Dongmakgol, The Good the Bad the Weird, Joint Security Area, Memories of Murder, the movies from the Vengeance Trilogy, ... I recommend any and all of these movies, be sure to watch them.
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