Disagree with the commentary

In a memorable segment, the retired literature professor, "the Gourd", tastes the sea eel for the first time and spells out its name in Kanji by writing in the air. The commentary states that this is because this how a professor learns a new food, by first spelling its name.

This misses what the other characters will comment about it later. They poke fun at the Gourd for being one of those academic types who are more concerned with things that don't exist, such as spelling, vs. things that do exist, actually eating the seafood in question. The film is showing us that the Gourd is a particular type of person and it helps explain how he neglects what is important, which highlights what we will later learn about his daughter.

It also points out the relative poverty of the Gourd and tells us that his retirement has not gone that well, or he would surely have tasted this dish by now.