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I converted an old broken payphone to a regular phone


It's an Intellicall 3003 chassis in a Tidel-3 housing; not exactly desirable as far as payphones go, and it's been dead as a doornail for as long as I've owned it (2008). Even if I were to fix whatever is wrong with the chassis, it would be pointless to do so, because programming software for it is made out of pure, 100%, grade A Unobtanium. Plus I already have a fully functional payphone; a Western Electric 1C, which is the original (they invented the iconic single-slot payphone design in the mid 1960s that companies like Protel, Nortel, Elcotel, GTE, and Intellicall copied starting in the 1980s).

I've wanted to convert it to a regular phone ever since I got it in 2008, but I never knew the pinout of its Touch-Tone keypad, and technical information about Intellicall payphones is just as hard to find as programming software.

So yesterday I decided to sit down with a continuity meter and figure it out. Surprisingly, it didn't take very long, and once I had the 7 pins (out of 20) for the keypad matrix identified, I wired them to the tone-generating PCB of a keypad from a typical 2500-type desk phone, which I in turn wired to an ITT 427-type network, also from a 2500. At that point it was a working phone that I could dial from the payphone's keypad:

https://i.imgur.com/Etke4aK.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/xByBYL3.jpeg

However, it was still using the 2500's hookswitch assembly, and I needed to wire it to use the payphone's hookswitch. The problem was that a 2500 uses 3 switches at the same time (one to open or close L1, one to open or close L2, and one to open or close the receiver shunt) and the payphone's hookswitch only has one SPST microswitch.

I decided to put the payphone's hookswitch only on L1, which is all that's necessary for functionality (switching L2 is redundant, and the receiver shunt switch just minimizes the pop you hear when you pick up the handset). That worked, but it worked backwards, i.e., when you hung up you got a dial tone, and when you picked up it hung up. Fortunately, the microswitch could be wired as normally-open or normally-closed, so that was an easy fix.

Then I needed to figure out the pins that connected to the built-in "ringer." It would have been easy if I could have seen the other side of the payphone keypad's PCB, but there was no way to do that without breaking the melted-over plastic posts that held it in place. Trial and error was the only way, but it only took about 5 minutes to find the right 2 pins, so now its "ringer" (more like a "chirper") works too.

The only thing left to do is permanently mount the tone-generating PCB and network into the payphone's upper housing. I'm still thinking about the best way to do that.

Edit: I forgot to include a picture of the whole payphone. It weighs about 50 pounds:

https://i.imgur.com/QHVQ5I8.png

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You sir, are a genius. The only thing I’m good at converting is alcohol to pee.

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Hey I can do that too. I also do sugar


Signed, million man

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Nice.

I look forward the part of the story where you end up unplugging it because telemarketers keep calling you on it.

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I don't get many telemarketer/unsolicited calls here.

When I was a kid we never got unsolicited calls. The first time I ever got one was when I was about 20 in the mid 1990s, and it earned me $100. It was from AT&T and they were trying to get me to switch to their long-distance service. It didn't matter to me what long-distance company I used, but I didn't have any incentive to switch either. Then she started offering me money to switch, starting with $20. Her final offer was $100, and I took it.

I told my supervisor about it at work the next day, and he laughed, thinking it was a scam, and I'd never see that $100. He changed his tune when I showed him the check from AT&T a few days later.

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Where we are we get calls that show up on call display as your own name and number.

It's a bit of a hoot - I am waiting for that call from my future self with lottery numbers or stock advice.

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That is sick A.F!!!!

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I made a ~30-second video showing the phone working:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV_2Jik-bLQ

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Wow.👍

You sir, are truly an ancient-techno nerd!👍

And I mean that in the nicest way possible 😎

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J. Paul Getty disapproves. A payphone should stay a payphone.

P.S. interesting post!

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Like I said, I already have a payphone that stayed a payphone, and it's a Western Electric:

https://i.imgur.com/BAO6cP9.jpeg

I got that in 2012 and I have no intentions of converting it to a regular phone. I love the sound of a quarter dropping though the coin mechanism, and the sound of the escrow relay kicking it into either the coin return bucket or the cash box (the sheet steel cash box especially, because when the quarter hits it it sounds like a gong).

I recently succeeded in programming it, which is no simple task. You need an old PC with a serial port, an external serial port dial-up modem, a DOS installation, the Protel ExpressNet software, and 2 POTS phone lines (or simulated ones, which I created with a Panasonic 6-line, 16-extension PBX like they use in offices). Then you have to figure out the convoluted ExpressNet software to create cost bands and assign them to all the area and exchange codes, among other things. I've been wanting to program it myself since I got it (originally I paid Payphone.com $25 in 2012 to call my payphone and program it, but it was never exactly how I wanted it).

But the payphone chassis for this old Intellicall has always been dead since I got it; there's no information on how to fix it, and even if you fix it, there's apparently no way to get the software to program it, so it's just been collecting dust here since 2008. Also, everything I did to convert it to a regular phone is completely reversible.

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J. Paul Getty approves.
https://www.factslides.com/i-9511

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Have you ever worked with stereo amplifiers? I am a bit of a stereo nut, but don't know how to solder and I am all thumbs anyway. I'd love to do this:

https://www.akitika.com/

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"Have you ever worked with stereo amplifiers?"

No. I was into car stereo amplifiers in the late 1990s through about the late 2000s, but I never needed to work on any of mine.

"I am a bit of a stereo nut, but don't know how to solder and I am all thumbs anyway. I'd love to do this:"

Kits are easy to put together; you just need to learn how to solder. In the late 1990s I worked in a PCB factory for a couple of years, soldering about 5,000 joints per night. I also trained new hires to solder when I worked there. They had awesome soldering irons there (made by Metcal; they sold for about $500 each back then; current versions cost about twice that - https://store.metcal.com/en-us/shop/soldering-desoldering/soldering-desoldering-systems/mx-series/MX-5220), and in about 2007 I bought a used Metcal on eBay, same model as the one I used at the PCB factory. It still works perfectly.

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Cool. I am so bad working with my hands, you are lucky. The one time I tried to learn how to solder I just made a big mess.

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Basic through-hole soldering on single or double layer PCBs is easy as long as you're told, or shown, the right way to do it. You need a decent soldering iron, some flux-core solder wire (I prefer 0.020" diameter 63/37 no-clean for most things, but 0.032" diameter, 60/40 rosin core tends to be a lot easier to find and will work). Also, you should have a good "solder sucker" (such as an Edsyn Soldapullt DS017), "solder wick" (such as Chemtronics Soder-Wick; "Soder" is not a typo), a pair of precision tweezers (such as Excelta 00SA), flush cutters (such as Xuron Micro-Shear 170-II, made here in Maine), and a wet sponge. We had all of those things at the PCB factory, and I have them at home as well.

With through-hole soldering you have a pad and a post; the pad being the bare metal ring around the hole and the post being the leg of the component that's sticking up through the hole. Once your iron is hot enough, clean the tip with the wet sponge, and then "tin" the tip slightly (melt a little solder onto the tip). The tip should look bright and shiny. Then press the tip against the pad and post (make sure the tip is contacting both of them at the same time) and feed solder wire into the pad and post (not directly onto the iron itself) from the opposite side that your iron is on. When you have a good fillet (which only takes a second or less), i.e., when it looks like a bright, shiny, smooth, metallic Hershey's Kiss shape, remove the iron and solder wire at more or less the same time. That's all there is to it.

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Watch out for hotheads
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYmBSh3bj5c

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That's always been a memorable scene for me, not only because of the real phone booth (which I've always liked, but they nearly went extinct before I was born), but also because of the 1977-1979 Ford Thunderbird. Our family car when I was a kid was a 1977 Thunderbird (Dad bought it in 1982; it was the second family car I remember; the first being a 1971 Ford Galaxie), with a "landau top" like the one in that scene. You can see the tail end of it in this picture:

https://i.imgur.com/jYDdUKV.jpeg

I can't figure that picture out, BTW. It was among Dad's things that we went through after he died in 2019. The date in the corner is June 1987, and those stores have French signs. The only time Dad was ever in a place like that was when we took a family trip to Quebec in 1984. The only thing my older brother can come up with for an explanation is that Dad waited 3 years to develop the pictures, but that doesn't seem likely. He was into photography; he was a professional photographer before I was born and had his own dark room. I don't see him waiting 3 years to get pictures developed.

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